Just past midnight in the wee hours of Sunday morning, I walked out of DC 9. Four hours of standing in the crowded club left me ready for a nosh. Fortunately, The Grace, at 1539 Seventh St. NW, is a late-night culinary oasis.
This space, many may recall, housed the second incarnation of Tom Brown’s famed dive bar, The Passenger. The Grace’s aesthetic could not be more different.
“It needed a chef’s hand,” said founder and executive chef Sanjay Mandhaiya, best known for Pappe, a Logan Circle favorite.
Karravaan and The Grace. Photo: The Grace
A Classic Saloon
Dark red floral-print wallpaper and red leather bar stools contrast with a white marble bar that runs nearly the length of the first floor. An elegant stainless-steel and white-glass display case, housing an expansive liquor collection, comprises the bar’s rear wall. Modern hanging lamps and track lights cast a warm glow throughout.
Small areas at the front and rear of the first floor accommodate comfortable wooden tables. Lit by floor-to-ceiling windows, a smaller bar graces the second floor, which also offers more seating.
The walls are punctuated with artwork. The larger oils give the establishment the feel of an English gentlemen’s club. A wall-mounted stag’s head completes the vibe. The idea was to create a modern saloon, Mandhaiya explained.
The Grace’s interior renovations are nothing compared to Mandhaiya’s innovative take on a classic pub cuisine menu.
Putting the Gastro in Pub
Decades ago, I interviewed the famous chef Michel Richard at the opening of his noted bistro Central. Why did a French chef put fried chicken on the menu? I asked. “Because, mon ami, I love fried chicken,” he replied with a twinkle in his eye.
Mandhaiya appears to have taken a similar approach to designing the cuisine at his “gastro pub.” The Grace’s menu features classics: slow-roasted chicken, an English club sandwich, grilled salmon, pasta and a Maryland crab cake. They can be paired with a variety of sides, such as lobster mac and cheese and small sharables like twice-fried cauliflower or mango-coconut shrimp.
There are two classic salads and Mandhaiya’s own take on French onion soup. His homage to the classic steakhouse concludes with a chef’s seafood platter and plates of chilled local oysters.
The Grace Burger, however, deserves its own paean. Fashioned from a mix of chuck, short rib and brisket, dressed in a red-wine-braised shallot sauce, it arrives in a bun, topped with American cheese, a substantial tomato slice and romaine, and served alongside a sea of hand-cut fries. It is simply sumptuous and requires determination to finish. It is a bargain at $21.75.
A more limited, very reasonable late-night menu is available. Noshes include beef sliders, classic wings, the Caesar and tuna tartare toast. The kitchen stays open from Thursday to Monday until midnight and until 1:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
Drawing on its well-stocked bar, The Grace offers a range of delicious craft libations. The bartenders press fresh sugar cane daily. Any cocktail incorporating this ingredient, such as the Agua Fresca, a personal favorite, the Strawberry Wine, the Ranch Coconut Water, or the Pepper & Corn, earns a place at the head of the line. There are also wines by the glass and a selection of beers.
The Grace’s entree and starter portions are as substantial as the prices are reasonable. The mains range from $25.75 for vegetable pasta to close to $50 for a 16-ounce ribeye. Cocktails run between $15 and $19. There is also a very good happy hour daily from 4 to 6 p.m., as well as a substantial brunch.
and known for her turn on Netflix’s “NextGen Chef,” is
The Grace’s chef de cuisine, lending her expertise to an
eclectic menu laden with refined touches. Photo: The Grace
The Chefs
Chef Mandhaiya’s eclectic approach to cuisine is rooted in his childhood. The child of a decorated Indian diplomat, he grew up internationally, spending time in Saudi Arabia, Ireland, Pakistan and Bhutan. Yet he remained connected to his family’s agrarian heritage in the foothills of the Himalayas.
Mandhaiya learned his craft at his mother’s and grandmother’s knees. One day, when his mom had gone off to the market, he tried his hand at frying papadam in a karahi, a common cooking pot similar to a chef’s pan. Unfortunately, the vessel tipped over, spilling hot oil everywhere. Mandhaiya’s mother was not amused by the mess and punished him accordingly.
To this day, many of the recipes at The Grace’s sister restaurant Pappe are rooted in Mandhaiya’s family, albeit reimagined for the modern restaurant.
Photo: Hawkeye Johnson Photography
Mandhaiya’s family never expected him to be a chef. Not to sound stereotypical, but as with many Indian children, he was educated as an engineer and pursued graduate studies in the United States. Working in restaurants while in school, he fell in love with the industry and moved up in the kitchens of the Hyatt Hotel chain.
After laboring in many of DC’s kitchens, Mandhaiya opened Pappe in 2018, Union Market’s Karravaan in 2025 and The Grace this past July.
At The Grace, Mandhaiya installed Courtney Evans as chef de cuisine. Hailing from North Carolina, Evans was a competitor on Netflix’s “NextGen Chef.” She is also a veteran of Charlotte’s acclaimed Leah & Louise restaurant.
At The Grace, Evans and Mandhaiya have created a comfortable yet elegant environment where locals can enjoy a delicious repast without pretension.
The Grace is located at 1539 Seventh St. NW. For more information, visit www.thegracedc.com.
