After almost 10 years of feeding the Shaw community New Jersey-style pizza at All Purpose (1250 9th Street, NW), Chef/Owner Mike Friedman recently opened Fossette Focacceria. The new space aims to be a casual market and cafe.
Fossette is the Italian word for “dimples,” referencing the dimples in focaccia bread. Open Wednesday to Sunday, the space offers a variety of breakfast and lunch focaccia sandwiches, desserts and coffee.
The sandwiches are made with thin focaccia flatbread, not the thicker, more familiar kind, with Italian meats and cheeses (like the Testaccio – braised beef short rib, horseradish, parmesan fonduta, arugula, parmigiano). Online ordering for pickup is available on Toast. For home chefs, Fossette’s market also offers high-quality coffee and Italian pantry staples.
Next door, in the same building, All Purpose Shaw is a must-go for Shaw residents and visitors alike. Widely regarded as offering one of the best pizzas in DC, All Purpose reflects Friedman’s love for the community. His recipes are the product of utilizing tradition and innovation. It took the chef a year to develop the pizza dough for All Purpose, which is made using a three-day cold fermentation process. Friedman also works with local farms to source the best ingredients and create fun seasonal specials.
The restaurant is specifically known for its New Jersey pizza. Not much different from New York style, All Purpose’s pizza is made in a deck oven at a lower temperature, creating a soft and chewy texture.
“Jersey pizza just means the pizza I remember growing up,” Friedman said. “It’s a very personal experience. And, you know, if you ask anyone, they’ll tell you their three favorite pizzerias that they would go to. And, to them, those are better than any other pizzerias that you could ever imagine.”
This nostalgia is what Friedman attempts to recreate at All Purpose. From the Caesar salad to Friedman’s pizza menu favorite—the Buona (tomato, mozzarella, pepperoni, grana, Calabrian chili honey, fresh basil)— the chef puts a little bit of love and his story into each dish.
For full menus and hours, visit allpurposedc.com and fossettedc.com.
Madi Koesler is a photojournalist and reporter for MidCity DC and the HillRag. She can be contacted at madikoesler@gmail.com or on Instagram @madikoesler.
